How can i tame my hamster




















As your hamster gets more comfortable, let it crawl from one of your hands to the other and over your arms. You can continue to offer treats, though your hamster may not be as interested in treats when there are new things to see and explore.

There may be a time you need to pick up a hamster that hasn't been tamed yet, such as to clean its cage. To do this, place a cup or cardboard tube with paper stuffed in one end to close it off on its side in front of the hamster and gently herd it into the cup or tube.

Most hamsters will walk right into the cup out of curiosity. Gloves or a thick towel can be used if you must pick up a hamster that bites , and if the cup method hasn't worked.

This can be really stressful and cause your hamster to resist handling even more, so if it is necessary to use this method, take extra care to be as gentle as possible. If your hamster bites you while you are handling it, know that it didn't mean to hurt you. The hamster just felt threatened. Try not to overact by yelling or harshly moving the hamster.

If you do, it will become scared of you. Instead, calmly place it back in its cage and wash the bite with soap and water. Owning A Pet Hamster. VCA Hospitals. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.

Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Grows white, and in time turns black. Spores can be deadly to hamsters, and very bad for humans too. If this happens, get the hamster to the vet immediately, and clean and disinfect the cage. Ringworm — not an actual worm, but a fungus.

It will form bald patches on the hamster, in the shape of a circle hence the name. Dry, flaky skin is on those bald patches, and the hamster might scratch at them furiously. Treatable, but again a vet is necessary. Aside from these two fungi, hammies can lose their fur because of old age. Other skin problems can be mites, and fleas as well. You can find out more on fleas on hamsters here, and how to treat them.

Hamster Digestive problems Digestive problems are never fun for anyone. However a hamster is more in danger than other mammals, because of hos their stomach is shaped.

Yes, hamsters are able to pass gas if necessary, but not as easily as us humans. Or an upset stomach either. You can find out more about hamster-safe foods here, most of them already in your fridge or pantry. Another thing to keep in mind is that hamsters can become constipated. You can help a constipated hammy by giving him softer foods like carrots, steamed veggies from this hamster-safe veggie list, and getting him to a veterinarian if he does not produce and droppings in 24 hours after the soft food.

Wet-tail in hamsters Wet-tail is more common in Syrian hamsters than Dwarf types. Wet-tail is most frequent in young hamsters, that were just weaned approx. So a young Syrian hammy that was just brought home might develop wet tail. Still, your hammy needs to see a vet right away. Symptoms include: a wet tail, because if a very watery diarrhea possibly smelly rear-end, because of the constant soiling smelly cage weakness, lack of appetite or thirst a matted, sweaty look about the hamster You can find out more about wet-tail in hamsters here, including how to treat it and the steps you should take in caring for a hamster recovering from wet-tail.

Diabetes in hamsters Another big problem in hamsters is diabetes. This is most common in the Dwarf types, so the Syrians have it easier here. Diabetes can come about in a few ways, mostly because of a poor diet. That means a diet with too much sugar and carbs, and very little exercise. This is not the only reason, but one of the biggest. Another reason is that the pancreas does not produce enough insulin, or that the body is very resistant to it. It will cause weight gain, circulatory problems, difficult breathing, and other problems that stem from these.

You can find out more about diabetes in hamsters here, and also about how to treat it. Tumors and lumps in hamsters Sometimes hammies develop extra cells. For example a tumor around the ear can extend to the entire half of the face. These usually can be removed, but not many vets are willing to perform surgery on such a small animal. The problem is that the anaesthesia is hard to do, and the patient himself is very..

Still, some vets have tried and even succeeded. They have experience with rodents, reptiles and birds and will possibly be able to help you more than a regular vet. Try everyone though, you never know who is going to save your friend. The thing is that hammies stuff everything in their cheeks. Food, nesting material, a bit of bedding, droppings. Mothers even stuff their babies there when they move them. However sometimes these cheeks can become injured, either by a sharp corner from the food, or maybe they were over stuffed.

They can sometimes come out completely, like an inside-out pocket. Other times the cheek becomes sticky with residue and whatever is in the cheek will become stuck. All of these can be solved, and they can also be avoided. Mostly by not giving your hamster any sticky, saucy foods that he will put in his cheeks grain-based foods end up in his cheeks usually. You can find out much more about hamster cheek pouches here, including how to treat the various problems that come up, and how to identify each one.

A flea infestation will drag on for months, a cold can be fatal, and an infected cheek pouch can lead to death.

Still, hamsters are able to take care of themselves, mostly by how absolutely clean they are. Up until their very last days, hamsters know that cleanliness equals health. So they tug and pull at their fur, comb through it, fluff it up, groom it some more, every few hours.

This is also done to avoid developing a strong scent that predators will use to find them. Your help is crucial here. Your hammy depends on you, and his health becomes your responsibility. Keeping your hamster healthy Keeping your hamster healthy revolves around a few simple things.

Cleanliness is chief among them, and the hammy himself is very good at keeping himself clean. Still, there are a few things you can do to help your hamster friend stay healthy: Regularly cleaning the cage, once per week. More on safe bedding and nesting material here. Giving the hamster a commercial food mix, which has all the nutrients balanced the way he needs them.

Only treating him to occasional treats, and in moderation to avoid weight gain and joint problems. More on hamster-safe foods here. Making sure that the floor or other surfaces you let him roam in the exercise ball are clean, and dust free. More about hamster exercise balls here.

More on hamster exercise wheels here. Aside from all these, remember that your pet hamster needs a calm and gentle person handling him. So a child or other pet should be kept away from the hamster. Any interaction should be supervised. Hamsters are very bad with stress, and will bite back if handled wrong. A word from Teddy I hope you found what you were looking for here. Us hammies do get sick every now and then, and we need your help with getting healthy. So this article was supposed to give you an overview of what kind of problems we can have.

If you want to know more about us hamsters, check out the related articles below. When you are keeping hamsters as pets, you need to make sure that it is as comfortable as possible in its cage or habitat because that is where the little fella will be spending most of its life in.

So, how long should you change the hamster bedding? If it is dirty, then you need to change it. But if it is still clean, then there is no need to change it. Always remember that hamster bedding can get dirty.

When that happens, there is a chance that your hamster will end up suffering from diseases and illnesses. Table of Contents How often should you change the bedding in a hamster cage? Where to put a hamster when cleaning bedding?

How to clean hamster bedding How often should you change the bedding in a hamster cage? Like any other animal, a hamster needs to live in an environment that is clean and sanitary enough for it. If the hamster lives in a habitat that may be too dirty or unsanitary for it, there is a chance that it will end up suffering from illnesses and other health conditions caused by bacteria that may have built up due to the lack of cleanliness.

While cleaning a hamster cage involves replacing its food, removing any dirt and feces, and making sure its water is fresh and clean, and replacing its bedding of course.

Again, the major determining factor that should prompt you to decide whether or not your hamster bedding needs to be changed is its overall cleanliness. The reason for such is that the bedding may still have the leftover bacteria or virus that can easily cause your hamster to get sick all over again.

So, the moment your hamster recovers from an illness, change the bedding immediately. Well, you are opening your hamster up to possible illnesses and diseases that can potentially cost you more money in the long run. In that sense, it will be absorbing all of the pee and feces from your hamster. So, where should you put your hamster when you are cleaning its bedding? So, one of the options for you is to use a pet carrier that is complete with materials that will keep the hamster busy while you are cleaning its bedding.

You can place food in the pet carrier and make sure that it is well covered so that your hamster will feel a sense of security without seeing what you are doing with its habitat. Another option that you can use is to allow it to roam around an enclosed and safe room by making use of a hamster ball. The hamster ball will allow the hamster to run around in a safe manner while making it feel free as it roams around the room all while you are replacing the bedding in its cage.

You can just simply get the little fella after you are done cleaning its cage. That means that the part of the bedding that has pee and feces should be removed and replaced as often as possible by scooping it out using a small shovel. This should be done as often as possible because your hamster will regularly pee and defecate.

Pick out any leftover food that may have found itself on the bedding. Because hamster food is solid, there is no need for you to replace the bedding where you found the leftover food. Again, no need to change the entire bedding if only a part of the bedding was soiled.

This ensures that no mold or mildew will build up in the moist area of the bedding. Remove the hamster from the cage and relocate it to another place see the above section. After that, scoop out all of the old bedding and place them in a plastic bag to make it easier for you to throw them out. After you have scooped out the old bedding, remove all of the other fixtures as well.

Use a disinfectant to clean the bottom of the cage or the habitat to remove any bacteria that may have clung to those spots. Spot-clean the entire cage or habitat as well by using a damp cloth. Dry the cage up using a dry cloth or by airing it out. You can now return the hamster back to its home. Do Hamsters Eat Toilet Paper? Did the hamster eat the toilet paper? Do hamsters even eat TP in the first place?

Table of Contents So do hamsters eat toilet paper? Is toilet paper safe for hamsters? What hamsters actually do with the TP you give themBedding and nesting material for your hamster friendHamsters store everything in their cheek pouchesSafe foods for your hamster friendA word from Teddy So do hamsters eat toilet paper?

No, hamsters do not eat toilet paper. They wad it up and store it in their cheeks to use as bedding or nesting material. There are times when the hamster does ingest a tiny bit of TP, because the difference between his cheek pouches and mouth is very small.

He sometimes misses. But if you look closely, his cheeks are swollen and he hid it there. Yes, toilet paper is safe for hamsters.

Even if your hammy ends up ingesting the TP, it is safe. Modern toilet paper is meant to dissolve in water after a short while. That being said, i depends what kind of TP your hamster got his paws on. The best TP to give to hamsters — not for food — is plain, unscented.

The most regular, boring version you can find is going to work just great. What hamsters actually do with the TP you give them Whenever you give your hammy a TP square, you probably see him going a bit crazy. You see, hamsters absolutely love anything soft and cuddly that can be used as nesting material.

This also means you should keep hammies away from fleece or cotton, since they will shove it in their cheeks and hurt themselves or get some fibers caught in their teeth.

So, your hamster will fit as much TP as he can in his cheeks, then make a bee line for his nest. All of them. It can get ridiculous. Hamsters decorate their nest with toilet paper, and with paper towels as well. For this reason, I recommend giving rather paper towels for his nesting material.

TP is highly absorbent, and will mat up more than paper towels. Well, no. Hamsters have an inherent need to nest and build a warm, big nest to cuddle and hide in. So they will go overboard with the nesting material. An ideal bedding depth is somewhere around inches, so your hamster has something to dig into.

Not all hamsters are diggers though. You can find out much more about the right kind of bedding you can get your hamster friend right here. You should check here for more info on that, and see how you can make your hammy comfortable in your home. Other options your hamster might use as his nesting material is cardboard. The long cardboard tubes left over from toilet paper, or paper towels are okay for hamsters to use.

They even play in them. YOu can find out more about hamster toys DYI and store bought here, and some ideas on what you can make for you hammy at home. But does he put everything in his cheeks? Well, yes, hamsters store everything in their cheek pouches.

Everything, Bits of food, nesting material, a few bits of poo, a half eaten cricket, anything. Hamsters have those pouches in order to be able run away if they have to make a quick split.

This also makes it easier for them to cover a lot of ground without having to keep returning to their nest to store everything. Kinda smart, if you think about it. This is one reason to never give your hamster something very sharp or extra saucy as food. But anything less than tasty protein or fruit will be shoved into the cheek pouch. A tasty noodle? It has a high chance of infection, and an infected cheek pouch is not easy to treat.

So be very careful what foods you give your hamster friend! Safe foods for your hamster friend You can feed your hamster lots of foods that are acceptable for you as well.

For the most part, hamsters can eat meat, veggies, fruit, grains, and seeds, just like us. Especially for the Dwarf types. They are prone to diabetes, and as such should be definitely kept away from sweets. Both Dwarf and Syrian types should have a very small amount of fats in their diet as well. They are living in your warm, comfy home, no reason to build up a layer of insulating fat.

So, if you want to know more about hamsters and meat, what kind of meat they can have, check out this nifty article, with a clear explanation of which meats are okay for hammies. When it comes to dairy, hamsters can eat some kinds, but not too much. You can read more about that here. And here you can find out more about what veggies are safe for hamsters, and here learn about the kinds of fruit your hammy can eat, and which to avoid.

Finally, you can read on here to learn more about nuts and the kinds hamsters can eat safely, and how much of them they can have at a time. Do remember that a commercial food mix has the basics all covered, and is designed to give your hamster the nutrition it needs. A word from Teddy I hope you found out what you were looking for here. We hide lots of it in our cheeks, and it looks like we eat it. But we just build our nests with them. If you want to know more about us hammies you can check out the articles below, to learn how to feed and house us properly, and how to play with us too Hamsters Living With Rabbits?

Can hamsters live with rabbits? Would they get along? Sounds like a reasonable, if a bit misguided, question from an owner who would like to introduce his two pets. While rabbits are fairly even tempered and seem kind of relaxed, hamsters are another story. For a more detailed comparison between hamsters or rabbits, you should read this article here.

Table of Contents So should hamsters be living with rabbits? No, hamsters and rabbits should not and can not live together. There are a few reasons for this. First, the hamster is very territorial, will fight anything that tries to trespass, and is very jumpy and easy to frighten. Second, a rabbit is a very social animal, who will want to cuddle and also establish a hierarchy of sorts. Bunnies have a lot of personality, and they also have the advantage of being ridiculously larger than hamsters.

The bunny will demand cuddles, grooming, run around, and generally own the place. This leaves the hamster in a subordinate position, which he does not take well to, and will bite, hide, and be stressed out of his mind. In some extreme cases the hamster may end up dead, since a kick or bite from the a bunny can be fatal for it. Even the hamster breeds that can live together in pairs — more on that here — can end up fighting to the death.

Hamsters like having their own space, their own food, and keeping away from other animals. A hamster will mark things as his own with his scent glands. He will try to be the dominant one in any setting, and hamsters housed together can end up bullying one another. You might argue that your two Dwarf hammies get along just great. They might, but because they were introduced as babies, and grew up together. They grew up of the same size, species, and scent profile. They have the same type of reactions, and will know how to read one another properly.

A hamster will be jumpy and scared most of his youth, while he learns the new sights, smells, and sounds in your home. A scared hamster is unpredictable, and is very likely to nip. And this article here, to understand the difference between the two main types of hamsters, and thus the general disposition of hamsters.

A quick word for those who assume rabbits are rodents — like I did until I got my own hamster and learned the differences: Rabbis are not related to hamsters, they are not rodents. Yes they bite and chew and burrow, but rabbits are lagomorphs. That being said, rabbits are very social animals, and in the wild they live in colonies. They love being groomed, and they actually have a hierarchy. The top rabbit is the one getting all the attention, food, grooming and so on.

Rabbits will actually come up to each other and ask for or demand attention, cuddling, and general social chit chat. A rabbit will need much more than that. It needs both a living space, and an exercise space. Finally, for rabbits the living and exercise areas should be linked together, for easy access.

If you want to know more about picking out a good rabbit habitat, you need to check out this site. Alright, you might say that hamsters love a big cage anyway, and would do well in a habitat as large as the rabbit needs.

A hamster will sleep the day away, much like the rabbit, and will make regular rounds of his space. A rabbit will do the same, and they are both very territorial.

All of it. So finding bunny scent on the outside of their hideout will be a source of stress and lots of fighting. Not only because of tensions coming up between the two. A hamster will have an omnivore diet. That means they can eat any type of food, with some exceptions — more on that here. However they will need grains and hard dry food to keep their teeth in check.

A rabbit on the other hand will need a different diet. First off, hay, lot and lots of hay since they much on it pretty much all day. This can be a problem, since the hamster will try to use this as his nesting material. Another thing rabbits need is fresh veggies and some fruits, which again can be attractive for the hamster.

Finally, pellets are considered to be the best kind of feed for rabbits. A pellet is like a large kibble, with all the nutrients the rabbit needs, and all pellets in the bag are the same. Best to keep us separate. If you want to know more about us hamsters, then your should check out the related articles below. You might think the same about your hammy when you get yours. Table of Contents So what is the main difference between Syrian and Dwarf hamsters?

The main and most obvious differences between Syrian and Dwarf types are the size, and whether they are solitary. Syrian hamsters are much larger than the Dwarf types. Keeping hamsters together is alright for Dwarf types, except for the Chinese. The Chinese dwarf, along with the Syrian, is solitary and must be kept alone. If not, they will fight to the death for the cage.

Alright, those are the main differences, and the most obvious ones. Hamsters are hamsters, and they will generally behave the same. But there are some differences between the 2 main types — Syrian or Dwarf — which can give you a slightly different pet.

There is the Syrian hamster, which is the largest and most common hamster you will find. But I will tell you a bit about each type available below. Syrian hamster The most common kind of hamster kept as a pet. Like all black, white, spotted, and so on. My Teddy is a golden Syrian hammy, and when I got him I thought I was getting a very special kind of hamster.

Place a treat on the palm of your hand and let your Syrian approach and take it. If he does not take the treat, let him sniff your hand and then place the treat into his food bowl for later. Do this for several days before attempting to pick up your hammy. Watch for signs that your hamster is becoming comfortable around you, such as quickly approaching when you place your hand in his cage and reacting positively to the sound of your voice.

Once these signs are present, place your hand in his cage with your palm facing up. Let him climb onto your hand, and then gently cup your hand and remove your Syrian from his cage. Sit on the ground to prevent injuring your hammy in the event he jumps or falls from your hand, and use your free hand to gently pet his back.

Spend time playing with and touching your pet Syrian every day to ensure he becomes and remains fully tame. By this point your hamster should be inquisitive enough to hop straight in. Carrying them carefully take them to your secure play place.

Once inside the bath set them down gentle and under their own steam let them run around, sniff you, climb on you and generally get to know you. Take some tubes and hamster toys for them to scamper, climb and nibble on. The next step is to get your hamster used to being held.

Some people find this scary as untamed hamsters are often skittish. Therefore, if you are anxious then I would suggest wearing gloves at first to take away any fear of being bitten. If they are happy to do this a number of times then wait from them to climb on and gently, whilst supporting their back and bottom, encourage your hamster to move from one hand to the other. Remember hamsters can move quickly so keep them held low at first, supporting them all the while.

If they seem at ease with being held, then you can try stroking them whilst in the palm of your hand, with a small brush or finger. Once your hamster is happy to be held, the final part to taming them it to get them comfortable with being calmly picked up. It is really important that you pick your hamster up without panicking them, so never lunge or grab at them. Hamsters are notorious for having bad eyesight so therefore any fast movements are likely to make them jumpy.

You should support their bottom in a cupping motion, so that they feel secure. If they start to wriggle their feet or squeak, put them back down immediately. Do not grip them too tightly when they move or squeeze them in an attempt to make them stop. Repeat this process regularly and for longer periods of times and eventually they will get so used to being held that they will sit contently in your hand and revel in being cuddled.

Each hamster is totally unique. Some may want to immediately bond with you, whereas others may take a number of weeks or even months to tame. My advice is to simply be patient.



0コメント

  • 1000 / 1000