Which milliput to use

Mix an even chunk of each stick of Milliput together until the colours are fully mixed and streak-free. Work your way up the wire trunk adding a layer of putty to cover the wire. You can do this with a sculpting tool such as a needly tool, or even an old toothbrush or tooth pick, whatever you think makes the best bark pattern.

Let it harden this should take no longer than about 4 hours and then paint the trunk with acrylic paint. You can also make a base for your tree out of Milliput. A there was limit branches to glue to turf on, the end result is a very bare looking tree. These little holes were very difficult to cover with paint and I ended up adding three coats of paint to the tree.

Make deep marks in your bark — I thought that scratching the surface lightly with a toothpick would be enough but when the Milliput had set, the light scratch marks were barely visible and the bark looked almost smooth.

Next time, I will make deep grooves in the bark. How long does it take Milliput to harden? Why is my Milliput not hardening? How do you store Milliput and what expiry date does it have?

On cooling the figure was rock-hard, just as if left to cure normally and carving with the scalpel showed no weaknesses in the surface.

The hardened Milliput showed no signs of the earlier blistering. Gentle, more gradual heating may have solved this; or starting with a lower temperature then building up. It may also be prevented if the material is allowed to cure a little more first i. It sounds identical to Milliput in all respects.. VAT and standard day delivery is also free. This is more expensive than the best shop price Tiranti for the standard grade but cheaper than the other white or coloured types.

But the advantages over Milliput may increase if one needs larger amounts. For example 1. Magic Sculp like Milliput, is a UK product. I was also told that Magic Sculp is softer to work with than Milliput because it contains less clay filler.

Entries will usually start with the basic definition, but then include anything I feel it is important to know in practice. When equal amounts of both parts are thoroughly blended together until the colour is uniform the putty begins to harden.

It remains easy to model for around 40mins, then slowly hardens but see below. It will stick annoyingly to fingers, but can be smoothed or even thinned with water. Vaseline on the fingers is effective in helping fine smoothing methylated spirits can also be used. When hard after hours it is very durable but can be easily sanded and tooled i. There is no noticeable shrinkage. Obtainable most good art or hobby shops, Tiranti, 4D Price c.

Apparently the setting time can be speeded to just a few minutes by applying heat Tiranti website. After hrs hardening, it needs same amount of time to fully cure. Different Milliput versions are intermixable but also resin or hardener parts between them as long as one knows which is which are also interchangeable.

Both After 3 hours still cut-able with a knife; still bendable, but no longer mouldable; can be squeezed but springs back like rubber and impressions do not hold; very good for carving. After 3 hours no longer mouldable; still flexible and cut-able but impressions do not hold.

The surfaces to which the putty is applied should be free from grease and dirt. Smooth surfaces should be cleaned with a suitable solvent or with soap and warm water to remove dirt and grease. Abrading the surface will improve adhesion. At all stages from initial mixing to final setting Milliput responds to the use of water.

To aid manipulation and avoid sticking, fingers and tools should be kept moistened with water. There are certain instances when work may be carried out in a gentle stream of water under a tap. To obtain a smooth finish, mould or apply Milliput and then immediately wipe and smooth gently with wet finger or with a fine textured moist cloth. When tools have been used for applying or contouring Milliput they should be cleaned immediately after use.

If the putty is allowed to harden on it will be almost impossible to remove. In the putty state Milliput, like most chemicals in domestic use, may cause irritation to sensitive skins. When mixing the two components it is advisable to use rubber gloves or throw-away polythene gloves.

Thanks for the info! My local hobbystore went out of green stuff and had some milliput on sale just 5 euro I used the yellow milliput for gap filling and bases, but it's really hard to do some fine modelling with it, because of the reasons you've already mentioned.

Is the white as soapy, as the yellow milliput? Norn Iron. Boba Fett wrote: Is this stuff made for modelling or is it made for gap filling? Portsmouth UK. You can mix it with GS too.

Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! Boba Fett wrote: I used the yellow milliput for gap filling and bases, but it's really hard to do some fine modelling with it, because of the reasons you've already mentioned. Spoiler :. Nice mini doomhammer. Thank you guys for your advice. I think i will give it a go and try it. Thanks for your time.

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